| | #11 |
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Hi All, You are right to a point, have made some corrections to end play that was only .003-.004" different from the old spacer/shim thickness, that means that the new bearings can be of exactly the same dimensions or very close to it, just off the top of my head, the spec averages .001-.008" end play, so you could easily be in the range specified, if not you would have to readjust. but the idea is nevertheless worth trying. |
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| | #12 |
| Guest Posts: n/a
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The used bearings I acquired for modification were in like new condition. I also always recheck the new bearings after the install. For me I have never had to change the shim I calculated using this method. The chances of damaging the new bearing in the pull and replace procedure is actually quite high. This reduces the possibility of having to replace the bearing and start all over again. If you follow the manual you will also be spending a lot of money on the Kent Moore tools to complete the job. I happed to be the pragmatic type. If it works as good or better than the procedures the Engineers or writers established I will use it. This is exactly how the dealers make money by beating the flatrate. I see nothing wrong with this. I have spoken to the owner of one of the business that rebuilds rear-trailing arms and sells them in different publications and online. He stated that you would not believe the number of damaged parts he receives after the Home Mechanic has attempted this job and then abandoned it. They end up sending the mangled up parts to him to finish the job. For certain this is not a job for the average Joe to complete in his driveway. Thanks to all for their input. |
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