Oil Quality

[vetman]

I've been told that modern engine oils have been reformulated to accommodate newer engines using roller cams, and may not be sufficient for the flat tappet cams used in our older 'vettes. I thought about switching to a roller cam, but hate to tear it down only for that...especially since the cam specs I'd choose are quite similar to the flat tappet version that I have. Another alternative is synthetic oil (mobil 1, etc). Any thoughts on the best choice?

[Itshakes]

You can use any oil you want. I always use Mobil 1 in all my cars. If you want, you can use "Dino oil" and add a can of EOS. I would use EOS in any oil to make sure the cam & lifters live.
They said the same thing when unleaded gas came out. "Your valve seats would wear out" because the lead was suppose to cushion the valves when they seat. The "fix" was to have hardened valve seats installed in the heads.
I drove my 327/350 hp 67 Vette for 60,000 miles on the original valves without any problems. It was just as strong the day I sold it as when I bought it.

My .02 cents.

[vetman]

Sorry to be stupid...what's EOS?

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,
GM has put alot of research into these myths.
You might want to look at these and see what they say.
Allthebest, c4c5

[vetman]

Thanks for this EXCELLENT history lesson!

[ChuckG]

I've been told by many to add cam lube, sold by many of the cam manufacturers, at each oil change. It contains many of the additives, like zinc, manganese, etc. that have been removed from modern oils.

It's rather flippant to dismiss the need for hardened valve gaskets so cavilerly. It's a thousand dollar + job to remove and refit heads properly when switching to unleaded fuels in a motor designed for leaded gasoline.

How many of those 60K miles on your '67 were logged before leaded fuel stopped being sold in the 80s? Chevy small blocks aren't exactly known for great valves, even under the best of conditions. I had oil seepage (blue smoke starts) at 50k miles.

Remember: GM is NOT in the business of your car lasting forever. Read what they write knowing they need to sell cars and parts to remain in business.

I have read C4C5's advice not only on this forum but others as well and know that whatever he tries to help us with, had best be taken to heart.

[aquaholic]

bottom line is if your oil bottle has this number on the label it's fine. manufacturer doesn't matter. it was either GM6094M or GM4718M. i'm, sure c4c5 will chime back in and let us know which one is correct.

[c4c5specialist]

Hi there,
As far as the lead in fuels and engines not equipped to handle them.
The lead acted as lubricant to the exhaust valve seats, preventing the seats from literally microwelding themselves to the exhaust valves because of the heat.
It takes many thousands of miles for this to produce and engine problem, which is characterized as popping through the exhaust system when the combustion occurs.
Another oil article can be found at www.sae.org about the incorrect assumption of oils in todays market not being ok for flat tappet cams.
I will attempt to find the link or the article.
Allthebest, c4c5

[c4c5specialist]

Here is the SAE link.
http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2004-01-2986
Allthebest, c4c5