Fuse issue? Electrical Issue? HELP NEEDED!!!

[@lien@ted]

I just changed the front turn signals. I had the rear hatch up for less than ten minutes and my battery has went dead. I hit the keyless entry and all of the lights went dim...the taillamps did not come on at all...and even worse there ws this loud humming/winding noise coming from inside of the car. I quickly investigated and found that the humming/winding noise was coming from the fuse box underneath the floorboard of the passenger side seat.

I am wondering wth is going on with my car. I am about to push her out of the garage, jump the battery, however I am curious to know what that noise is that is emitting from the fuse box area on the passenger side beneath the floor board.

Earlier today, after picking up some groceries, I got into the car, turn the ignition and heard the same noise, however I could not decipher as to what it was as I had never heard it. This time, I caught it quickly enough whereas I could locate the origin.

Any ideas, folks? Fuse need changing? Electrical issue? What gives? Thanks is advance, Corvette Family.

[@lien@ted]

Ok, I just hit the disarm button on the keyless entry and I heard the buzzing again - loud and clear now that I have the area beneath the passenger side floorboard exposed. What in the world???

I guess, I'll take a chance, jump her and see what happens.

[BruceF]

Typical for a weak battery. Sounds like its time for a new battery. Have your load tested. And make sure the battery terminals are torqued properly. I'd charge it rather than jump starting.

[@lien@ted]

10-4, Sir. I'll do that ASAP. She uses a Duralast...only 2 years old. I suppose, I'll take it to The Zone, ask for a charge and see if a new one is necessary. Thanks again!

[c4c5specialist]

I bet you dont have a 78 class battery either.

78-6YR is the correct battery class for your vehicle, unless your car is a 2004, I dont know what year you have.

Allthebest, c4c5

[@lien@ted]

I own a 2000 Coupe.

As for the battery, the specs are as follows:

Duralast/BatteryPart Number:75-DL

AutoZones Original Battery - Proven Tough, Duralast! Duralast is designed to meet your vehicles original Cold Cranking Amps and Reserve Capacity specifications. Duralast is the best choice for vehicles operating under normal conditions and mileage.

•PATENTED POWERFRAME™ GRIDS engineered to be more efficient for optimal performance!
•BEST IN CLASS VENT CAPS are engineered to be safer and reduce leakage and corrosion.
•SOLIDIUM™ WELDS are designed to stop corrosion and prevent premature failure.
•LIFESPAN™ NEGATIVE PASTE is formulated to improve performance and battery life.

Part Number: 75-DL
Weight: 31.3 lbs
Warranty: 7 YR
Application: Automobile
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 650
Core Charge Applicable: Yes
DIN Designation: BCI or EN Only
EN Designation: DIN or BCI Only
Height (In): 7.3125
Height (mm): 186
Length (In): 9.0625
Length (mm): 230
Width (In): 7.0625
Width (mm): 180
Weight (Lbs): 32
Post Location: Side Post
Reserve Capacity (Min): 95
Right Or Left Hand Positive: Left
Voltage: 12

[@lien@ted]

Okay, I just looked at the Auto Zone website and lo and behold, I should have been running a 78-DL, not a 75-DL. This is just a specualtion, but I suppose the "78-DL" would represent a 78-Class battery...???

c4c5, Is the 78-DL (Duralast) a 78-Class Battery as I assume it is based on the part number, Sir?

I guess this was an honest mistake by the fella that sold me the battery - the 75-DL - in the store, however in accordance to the Auto Zone website, I clearly should have been running the 78-DL. I will be taking this battery back and getting the right one!!!

Lesson learned...research the problem and the necessary parts and tools for the fix PRIOR to going to the store next time. Had I simply came here first, went to the Auto Zone website, I would not have had to take the associate or his computer's "word" for it; I would have KNOWN that the 78-DL is the correct part! Oh well, we live and we learn...if we're smart.

Thanks so much for pointing me in the right direction, guys.

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,

Yes, you can use the 78-DL for your car.

Allthebest, c4c5

[Junkman]

The sound you hear is the seat control on your passenger's seat which has shorted and is running due to water intrusion. What has happened is you have spilled water inside the car (most likely from washing), and that water has dripped into the controller. This is a common occurance if your roof leaks and all it takes is a couple of drops of water to create the issue. It can take quite a while for that controller to dry out depending on the temps where you live. This has been the issue that has drained a many battery, including my own before I figured out what happened.

The next time you wash your car, drape a towel over the seat controller. Once you're done washing the car, check the towel for moisture. If it has any moisture, that will confirm my suspicion. Then get that leak fixed!

[ALIENATED]

10-4, Junk...I know for a fact that there is a leak over there. Time to spring for the 3M weatherstripping kit, I suppose. I will certainly try the diagnostic procedure - re: the towel - and I am almost certain there will be some moisture.

Question: Did you replace the seat control on your ride? My guess is that you did or otherwise, you eliminated the moisture on your own. Just curious as to what I would be looking at - re: $$$ - to rectify the compromised seat control IF in fact that is the problem. By the way, I have already sprung for one helluva a battery, so I really am not sure as to how I would deciper for certain that there is mositure in the seat control at this point.

On another note, nice DIY videos on youtube, brother. I had been taking the long route to change lamps for years. In spite of having large hands, I was still able to change them using the 5-minute method, thanks to you, Sir. Right on!