Shift To Park

[Mike Green9]

Hi.

I just finished installing a new shifter knob on my 2008 C6 with an A6. Now I'm getting a 'Shift To Park' message on the DIC.

Here is the history:

I turned on ACC mode, and placed the shifter into neutral.

I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery.

I then spent a couple of hours trying to get the knob in place (as discussed in a previous post), and finally manged to get it installed. I "ran" through the gears, and left it in Park.

I reconnected the negative terminal, indexed the windows, and attempted to shut ACC mode off. I kept getting a 'Shift To Park' message on the DIC.

Repeated disconnects of the negative terminal - and still the same problem.

The gear shift is solidly in Park, and repeated attempts to 'run' through the gears again does not clear the condition.

It appears that I'm still in ACC mode, with the computer thinking I'm NOT in Park.

What to do?


Thanks,

M...

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,

There is a switch there that is probably not connected.

When the electricity is reconnected, its looking for a signal that its in park and doesnt see it. Also if the shift button doesnt not return all the way to the UP position, then this can also happen.

Allthebest, c4c5

[Mike Green9]

Hi Paul.

I was sure your idea about the plunger pin (shift button) was bang on.

I tried to get the new shift knob off, and it is really stuck on there. So I popped off the plastic tab at the top, and removed the plastic button that depresses the plunger. There is a white plastic tab that it pushes on, and now it is up and out of the way of the plunger. Nothing in the shift knob is touching the plunger.

Sadly, this did not fix the problem.

I never did remove the console and bezel, so I can't imagine how a connector plug would disconnect by installing a shift knob (and Ebrake Lever/boot).

I then tried to start the car. Strangley, the 'Shift To Park' message disappeard, and the start up logo appeared on the DIC, and the headlights turned on. Then the CEL came on and that's it. I then disconnected the negative cable again.

A cable reconnect - and back to ACC mode, and trying to shut off ACC mode, yields the old 'Shift To Park" message.

Should I try touching the disconnected negative battery cable to the positive terminal (reset)??

I have an inexpensive code reader (Innova 3100) - I guess I will start looking for codes. I have never used it, but I will try.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated on this Christmas day.


Thanks,

M...

[Mike Green9]

Back again. Dec.25.2010 15:00

The code reader said "No DTC's stored in vehicle computer". It seems like a fairly decent one (no, it's not a Tech II), and says it can display 'b' codes (BCM ???).

I decided to try something else. I moved the shift lever OUT of Park, and tried to start the car. It said "Step On Brake", and I did. I pressed the start button again, and it did not complain and the start up logo came on, along with the headlights. Then the CEL came on, but the code reader still said no DTC's.

Seems funny to me that it never complained by saying 'Shift To Park' when I tried to start it. Appears that it does think it's in Park sometimes, even if it's not. (Of course I never tried starting the car OUT of Park before all this, so I don't know what should happen.)

Help.


M....

[froggy47]

Originally Posted by Mike Green9

Should I try touching the disconnected negative battery cable to the positive terminal (reset)??



M...

NO!!!!!

That's a dead short, you will probably explode the battery or at least weld the terminals together & kill it.

Techs correct me if I'm wrong.

[Mike Green9]

Hi.

I'm not saying put the battery terminals together. Just the cars dangling negative terminal cable (grounded to the block) to the positive cable of the battery.

BOTH battery cables would be disconnected from the battery, and then touched together. The battery would not be in the circuit at all.

I am afraid of doing so, but I read somewhere that this would be a reset of the electronics. Not something I will try.

Is this a mechanical problem, or a computer probem? I did disconnect the battery when the car was in Neutral, and later, reconnected it when the car was in Park. Shouldn't matter, but I'm just asking.

What would the procedure be if the car was at a GM dealer? Where would they start? With a Tech II diagnostic?

I just don't know what to try next. Not much of an Xmas present.


Thanks,


M...

[froggy47]

OK, just had me worried there. I am not sure on this reset, I have never done it.

:)

[LLC5]

Originally Posted by Mike Green9

Hi.

I'm not saying put the battery terminals together. Just the cars dangling negative terminal cable (grounded to the block) to the positive cable of the battery.

BOTH battery cables would be disconnected from the battery, and then touched together. The battery would not be in the circuit at all.

I am afraid of doing so, but I read somewhere that this would be a reset of the electronics. Not something I will try.

Is this a mechanical problem, or a computer probem? I did disconnect the battery when the car was in Neutral, and later, reconnected it when the car was in Park. Shouldn't matter, but I'm just asking.

What would the procedure be if the car was at a GM dealer? Where would they start? With a Tech II diagnostic?

I just don't know what to try next. Not much of an Xmas present.


Thanks,


M...

You can remove one of the battery cables (preferably the negative cable), and touch the removed cable to the other (positive in this case) cable, this will discharge the capacitors in the vehicle modules so that you can work on the vehicle. Leaving the negative cable unhooked for 20-30 minutes can accomplish the same results.

If your problem happened right after the knob install, then it does sound like the computer is not seeing that the lever is in the park position. You may have wiggled or bumped a switch connector (park/neutral/switch) that controls the lever position sensor. I would re-trace all your steps and look for any wires or plug connectors that are close to where you were working and see if they are loose or disconnected. Also make sure the the lever detent button is positioned properly, and works smoothly and easily in the lever. Double check that the plunger in your #3 post is working properly as it may send a signal to the computer. If you cannot find the problem, then you may need to have the dealer look at the problem with a Tech 2 so you can find out what inputs the computer is not seeing. Good luck with it.

[Mike Green9]

Thanks LLC5.

Yes it does appear that I did something wrong when I installed the knob. I never removed the center trim piece - all I did was slip the old knob off and plunk in the new one. There are no wires or connectors or switches exposed at this time.

However, I had to tap the new knob down a couple of times (with the palm of my hand) in order to seat the 2 plastic clips of the knob on the shaft.

Is it possible that this unseated a connector or misaligned a switch? Seems like a weak setup if that's the case.

The lever works very smoothly from P to S and back, and I have removed the plastic button on the knob to ensure that nothing is pushing down on the plunger.

I guess I will have to remove the center trim piece (just below the shift lever) and have a look. I really did not want to do this.

What sort of switches are under the trim piece? Is there one for the plunger and one for the positioning of the lever? Can I do a simple conductivity test (battery is disconnected) to see if they are opened or closed?


Thanks,

M.....

[LLC5]

Originally Posted by Mike Green9

Thanks LLC5.

Yes it does appear that I did something wrong when I installed the knob. I never removed the center trim piece - all I did was slip the old knob off and plunk in the new one. There are no wires or connectors or switches exposed at this time.

However, I had to tap the new knob down a couple of times (with the palm of my hand) in order to seat the 2 plastic clips of the knob on the shaft.

Is it possible that this unseated a connector or misaligned a switch? Seems like a weak setup if that's the case.

The lever works very smoothly from P to S and back, and I have removed the plastic button on the knob to ensure that nothing is pushing down on the plunger.

I guess I will have to remove the center trim piece (just below the shift lever) and have a look. I really did not want to do this.

What sort of switches are under the trim piece? Is there one for the plunger and one for the positioning of the lever? Can I do a simple conductivity test (battery is disconnected) to see if they are opened or closed?


Thanks,

M.....

I have never had one apart myself, but your #3 post about a plunger makes me suspect of a piece that may not be allowing the park/neutral switch to be in synch. I would remove the knob and make sure that all the pieces of the plunger are installed correctly and that nothing is broken. Good luck with it.