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Old 04-24-2011, 11:10 pm   #1
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CM Part # gas door release button?

2004 Z06 40k miles.

I did a tranny & diff service Sat.

The tranny fluid looked like when I pumped it in 12 months/6k miles ago. The diff oil was darkened & smelled like gear oil usually does.

Q1: I assume the tiny/shiny particles in the diff fluid are normal diff clutch wear?

I always do a shifter align just to compensate for wear/tear etc.

You remove the center console trim & trim around the center dash to get to the shifter.

The gas door release button is a pita to get to & I broke the tiny tabs to hold the button onto the rest of the switch, it still works ok but it would suck to not be able to open the filler door & gas the car if it fails.

Q2: How are you supposed to connect/disconnect the switch? The FSM isn't much help. The wire harness is VERY short & the console will only tilt so far before putting strain on the button assembly. I have med. size hands & just can't seem to squeeze in the pass side to release the wire harness quick disconnect.

Can you just punch the button assembly down from the top? Will that break something?

Q3: Part #for the sw. I want to have a spare.

I use Redline D4atf & Redline Gear Oil 75w/90 that already includes friction modifier.

The tranny shifts like hot knife thru butter for a few weeks after I do this (even into reverse), then a tiny bit of notchy/resistance comes back until I change it again. It also gets a little hard to go into reverse.

Q4: Why would that be?

When this all starts, I will stick it in 3rd & barely let the clutch out until I feel a tiny fwd movement, then clutch in & into rev with no resistance.

Q5: Does that "line up" something in the gear box so that rev wants to engage easier?

Thanks for any help.

:)

2004 Z06/Z16
1996 LT4 Coupe (SOLD)

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Old 04-25-2011, 10:19 am   #2
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there is a manual release if the switch fails
the cable inside the rear hatch under the lip by the gas cap

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Old 04-25-2011, 10:43 am   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froggy47 View Post
2004 Z06 40k miles.

I did a tranny & diff service Sat.

The tranny fluid looked like when I pumped it in 12 months/6k miles ago. The diff oil was darkened & smelled like gear oil usually does.

Q1: I assume the tiny/shiny particles in the diff fluid are normal diff clutch wear?

I always do a shifter align just to compensate for wear/tear etc.

You remove the center console trim & trim around the center dash to get to the shifter.

The gas door release button is a pita to get to & I broke the tiny tabs to hold the button onto the rest of the switch, it still works ok but it would suck to not be able to open the filler door & gas the car if it fails.

Q2: How are you supposed to connect/disconnect the switch? The FSM isn't much help. The wire harness is VERY short & the console will only tilt so far before putting strain on the button assembly. I have med. size hands & just can't seem to squeeze in the pass side to release the wire harness quick disconnect.

Can you just punch the button assembly down from the top? Will that break something?

Q3: Part #for the sw. I want to have a spare.

I use Redline D4atf & Redline Gear Oil 75w/90 that already includes friction modifier.

The tranny shifts like hot knife thru butter for a few weeks after I do this (even into reverse), then a tiny bit of notchy/resistance comes back until I change it again. It also gets a little hard to go into reverse.

Q4: Why would that be?

When this all starts, I will stick it in 3rd & barely let the clutch out until I feel a tiny fwd movement, then clutch in & into rev with no resistance.

Q5: Does that "line up" something in the gear box so that rev wants to engage easier?

Thanks for any help.

:)


1) It sounds like normal clutch pack wear, but with out seeing it it is hard to tell for sure.

2) I do mine from the drivers side. I tilt up the console towards the passenger seat and pull up on the switch locking tang and carefully pull down on the harness connecter. It is a tight fit, but so far has always worked.

3) That I don't know.

4) I think it is just luck as the fluid is not really contaminated yet, but I have noticed the same thing. See #5.

5) Yes, the gear/shaft speeds need to line up correctly for correct engagement, which is the function of the synchronizers (I have found that Redline D4 ATF helps them do their job). In first and reverse the vehicle is normally at rest, and transmission gear/shaft speeds need to come up to engine/flywheel speeds to engage smoothly.

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Old 04-25-2011, 11:29 am   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettex2 View Post
there is a manual release if the switch fails
the cable inside the rear hatch under the lip by the gas cap

Oh yes, that info was stuck in the cobwebs of my brain, that's for refreshing.

:)

2004 Z06/Z16
1996 LT4 Coupe (SOLD)

2006, 2009, 2010, 2011 SCCA Solo Regional Champion

Check out my DIY videos

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Old 04-25-2011, 11:37 am   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LLC5 View Post
1) It sounds like normal clutch pack wear, but with out seeing it it is hard to tell for sure.

2) I do mine from the drivers side. I tilt up the console towards the passenger seat and pull up on the switch locking tang and carefully pull down on the harness connecter. It is a tight fit, but so far has always worked.

3) That I don't know.

4) I think it is just luck as the fluid is not really contaminated yet, but I have noticed the same thing. See #5.

5) Yes, the gear/shaft speeds need to line up correctly for correct engagement, which is the function of the synchronizers (I have found that Redline D4 ATF helps them do their job). In first and reverse the vehicle is normally at rest, and transmission gear/shaft speeds need to come up to engine/flywheel speeds to engage smoothly.

Thanks!

I have been practicing "heel/toe" shifting on the street (when it's safe) and have got pretty decent at it, lately. It's absolutely amazing how easy the tranny will down shift when revs are matched and how hard the syncro's have to work when the speeds are off.



I use the double clutch heel & toe, there is also the throttle only rev match, but I figure my left foot is on the clutch anyway, may as well use it to do something.

2004 Z06/Z16
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Old 04-25-2011, 01:18 pm   #6
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It's tight, but I reach under the console to disconnect the fuel door connector, rather then try and take the switch out altogether.

And yeah, rev matching rocks! Our cars seem to love it! : ) Plus you can impress your friends... : )

Now go play with your tools!


1998 6-speed Coupe. Z06 exhaust, Z06 sway bars, C6 Z06 Shifter, LS6 Intake Manifold, K&N FIPK, Vararam Velocity Stack, stainless steel brake lines, Borla X pipe, Z06 shocks. SAE Dyno Numbers 330 RWHP/340 RWTQ


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Old 04-25-2011, 05:14 pm   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToolGuy View Post
It's tight, but I reach under the console to disconnect the fuel door connector, rather then try and take the switch out altogether.

And yeah, rev matching rocks! Our cars seem to love it! : ) Plus you can impress your friends... : )
That's how I got it, finally.

I might splice on an extension to the wires next time. Would that screw anything up?

2004 Z06/Z16
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:24 am   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froggy47 View Post
That's how I got it, finally.

I might splice on an extension to the wires next time. Would that screw anything up?
Nope! An extension would be fine.

Now go play with your tools!


1998 6-speed Coupe. Z06 exhaust, Z06 sway bars, C6 Z06 Shifter, LS6 Intake Manifold, K&N FIPK, Vararam Velocity Stack, stainless steel brake lines, Borla X pipe, Z06 shocks. SAE Dyno Numbers 330 RWHP/340 RWTQ


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Old 07-08-2011, 05:58 pm   #9
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I spliced in an 8 inch extension & quick disconnects, sweet.

2004 Z06/Z16
1996 LT4 Coupe (SOLD)

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Check out my DIY videos

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