z06 Help - Burning Clutch Smell

[acthegiant]

Glad to have access and love the concept around this forum!

I have a 2006 z06, right now has 18k miles. When I bought it, had 8k miles. I know the original owner (brother). The car has been taken care of, not babied, but not abused.

Since I got it, on the occasions when I drive it where I am getting close to redline (never over, always under) I smell burning clutch. Haven't done burn outs, this is mostly higher speed driving. These days the clutch engages only at the last 1/3 of travel no unusual behaviour, just at the end of the range of motion, not the start. Never had sticking clutch or anything like that and the clutch fluid is clean.

My local corvette mechanic believes the clutch is worn out. I have GMPP, but that considers the clutch a 'normal' wear and tear item. All that being said, I don't know anyone that believes a clutch should be worn out after 18k miles, and since its been having the burning clutch smell since 8k miles, I have to believe something isn't right and if this car hasn't been abused (it hasn't) then something is wrong. So what do I do? My mechanic does GMPP and takes the approach that it has to be taken apart to figure out if something 'covered' caused premature wear out - of course that is an expensive undertaking to gamble with.

I am looking for advice as to how to proceed with GMPP and the mechanic (or dealership?) to fix the problem.

I took first delivery of the car for my brother, and one thing I do know is it doesn't have nearly the 'bite' on shifting that it had when it was first picked up, so I am not skeptical that the clutch is gone. Just aggravated its so early and trying to protect my $$, since I paid a lot of money for that GMPP warranty.

The dealer is pretty much in the same place as my mechanic. I have not escalated the problem with either GMPP, GM, or the mgmt of the dealership.

Any meaningful advice here would be greatly appreciated!

Couple more issues to come in later posts!

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,

Your clutch is worn out.

Your key is that the engagement is at the top 1/3 of travel.

That means that the pressure plate has used up all the adjustment and its not able to adjust further.

Clutch friction material is like brakes and will wear out depending on the driving habits, nothing more, and nothing less.

I have customers who toast one in 5k, others have made 100,000 with the stock clutch.

That being said, unless there is a predetermined condition that warrants it, your most likely on your own and will have to pay for a clutch.

Allthebest, c4c5

[NORTY]

Yup, your clutch is done. Now is the opportunity to upgrade it since you're buying it. Don't bother with trying to get other people to pay for an excluded system warrantywise. It won't work.
You state that the clutch doesn't bite like it did when new. The car only has 18,000 miles and it's worn out. If anyone wears out anything on these cars in 18,000 miles (except the tires) then there's operator error. How many holeshots did your bro do? Drag radials?

Like i said, now is the time to upgrade your clutch/flywheel...

[stingray]

That is not normal wear. These clutches are driven differently than say a '60's muscle car in that you don't "slip" the clutch to engage it to get the car going; you bring it up pretty quick. Any idea about your brothers driving habit?

I got 144K on the clutch in my '88 before replacement and 170K on my '00. The new owner had it replaced just because of the mileage; when the Chevy tech took it apart he told him it was just fine but replaced it anyway since it was apart.

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,

And lets be very clear about one other thing.

DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET PARTS, like flywheel or friction material.

People get varying information as far as the goods and bads of clutches.

OEM is your BEST option, unless you are racing constantly.

Allthebest, c4c5

[NORTY]

Originally Posted by c4c5specialist

HI there,

And lets be very clear about one other thing.

DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET PARTS, like flywheel or friction material.

People get varying information as far as the goods and bads of clutches.

OEM is your BEST option, unless you are racing constantly.

Allthebest, c4c5

True, you need to know what you're doing when it comes to clutches. However, depending upon if the OP is going to increase torque, the clutch may need to be looked at for increased capacity.

However, the stock clutch material is likely the best as far as drivability, smoothness and durability (life). At the stock power level.

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,

The LS7 clutch is rated at 550 ft lbs of torque.

MORE than enough for any LS7 engine if installed and driven correctly, even with bolt on mods.

Allthebest, c4c5

[froggy47]

Does the ls7 clutch bolt right in to an ls6 car?

[c4c5specialist]

Hi there,

if you purchase a flywheel to match it, yes.

Allthebest, c4c5

[froggy47]

Originally Posted by c4c5specialist

Hi there,

if you purchase a flywheel to match it, yes.

Allthebest, c4c5

For how I use my car, I think that would be the best choice.

Mine is still good at 40k, but it is starting to engage a bit higher, I can tell.

:)