C5 Drive Belt IDLER Pulley

[@lien@ted]

Okay - We're putting a new idler pulley on as well as the bearing are bad in the original one. My question is, should the bolt hold the idler pulley in place be tighten to a certain torque? At the moment, we are tightening the bolt down, however the idler pulley is not spinning. Confusion ... I do recall the bolt being quite easy to unscrew to begin with, thus perhaps it should be very lightly tightened? Any takers? THANKS.

[@lien@ted]

I believe that I see what the problem is after reassembling the original pulley. The Duralast Pulley has a face that has a deeper inset, thus the piece that sits between the bolt and the pulley itself is not making contact with the center of the pulley, so it cannot spin. I suppose OEM it is if the Gates does not fit. Wow.

[rocket8189]

As I understand it and assuming you have installed it correctly, a new one does not spin "by hand." It can be turned by hand but will not "freewheel" spin. Something about the tension of the spin adds to proper pull on the belt to keep it tight per spec. As I recall, if you can "freewheel" it on the car, belt off of course, it may be time for a new one.

Corrections???

[froggy47]

Originally Posted by rocket8189

As I understand it and assuming you have installed it correctly, a new one does not spin "by hand." It can be turned by hand but will not "freewheel" spin. Something about the tension of the spin adds to proper pull on the belt to keep it tight per spec. As I recall, if you can "freewheel" it on the car, belt off of course, it may be time for a new one.

Corrections???

That is my understanding also, if it spins easy/loose it's shot.

[@lien@ted]

Originally Posted by rocket8189

As I understand it and assuming you have installed it correctly, a new one does not spin "by hand." It can be turned by hand but will not "freewheel" spin. Something about the tension of the spin adds to proper pull on the belt to keep it tight per spec. As I recall, if you can "freewheel" it on the car, belt off of course, it may be time for a new one.

The Duralast was installed correctly. After doing some research, it seems the '97-'00 came with a slightly different idler pulley. Specifically, it does not have as deep of an inset on the front side of the pulley. The problem occurred, because AutoZone sells the '01-'04 pulley, and I happen to have a 2000. As such, the plates that fit on the front and back of the pulley did not fit the '01-'04 Duralast pulley.

Originally Posted by froggy47

That is my understanding also, if it spins easy/loose it's shot.

As for the freewheeling/spinning: This is great information, guys. The original pulley not only was freewheeling, but I could also hear a rattling noise of the bearings when I shook the pulley. It was definitely shot!!!


You all wouldn't happen to know if the idler pulley is supposed to be tightened down to a specific torque would ya?

Thanks for the info, rocket, froggy, and co...

[ToolGuy]

Originally Posted by rocket8189

As I understand it and assuming you have installed it correctly, a new one does not spin "by hand." It can be turned by hand but will not "freewheel" spin. Something about the tension of the spin adds to proper pull on the belt to keep it tight per spec. As I recall, if you can "freewheel" it on the car, belt off of course, it may be time for a new one.

Corrections???

: ) This is what I typed above but deleted when he said he found the issue.

[rocket8189]

37 ft. lbs on torque

[@lien@ted]

Originally Posted by rocket8189

37 ft. lbs on torque

Right on, Sir. Much thanks, Guys. Now to get after this as soon as time permits!

[@lien@ted]

Originally Posted by rocket8189

37 ft. lbs on torque

Thanks to you guys. I appreciate all of the assistance and ideas. I now have a Gates Serp Belt, Gates Water Pump, Gates Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly w/ pulley, and a Dorman Drive Belt Idler (I may replace this part with a GM spec).

I must say that the car is so much more QUIET! It is so quiet that now, I can hear some squeaking coming from the AC pulleys. It is not nearly as loud as the sounds coming from the drive system were, however it is a little noisy.

I sprayed some WD40 on the AC Tensioner Pulley and sure enough, the noise went away. SO, now, I plan to replace the AC Tensioner Assembly/Pulley and AC Idler Pulley as well.


My questions:

(1) Is it okay to run the car without the AC Serpentine Belt until I can get to the job next weekend?

(2) Why do some "experts" deem it to be imperative that you replace the Serpentine belt any time that you remove it from the system regardless of whether it is worn or not? I have heard multiple gearheads state that any time you take the serpentine belt off, then it is no longer any good. As such, don't put it back on.

Alright, guys. Thanks again for the support. You guys keep inspiring me to fix these cars on my own, whereas in the past, I would just take it to a dealership or a speed shop and give them all of my money. Since joining the site, the jobs I am completing - with you guys input - are getting more and more advanced as I go. Thanks again.

[ToolGuy]

Originally Posted by @lien@ted

My questions: [/U][/B]

(1) Is it okay to run the car without the AC Serpentine Belt until I can get to the job next weekend?

(2) Why do some "experts" deem it to be imperative that you replace the Serpentine belt any time that you remove it from the system regardless of whether it is worn or not? I have heard multiple gearheads state that any time you take the serpentine belt off, then it is no longer any good. As such, don't put it back on.

Yes on #1. The AC compressor wont care it's not spinning.

For #2, I've never heard this myself and don't understand the logic. Why replace a perfectly good belt just because you had to take it off the car? Are these belt manf that you are talking to? (kidding of course)

I've never done this.

I inspect my belts every few months and I even just put a new belt tensioner on my wifes car last weekend, but not a belt. There was no reason to put a new belt on the car, it was only months old! Belts these days last a long time and inspection is all that is needed. You look for cracks, glazing of course, frays, missing ribs and so on. Stretched belts are another, but most stretched belts also hav other signs of needing replacement.

I'm going to look in the GM serv info on this because again, I've never heard of this.